Florence

Introduction to Florence

It makes sense to start here. Italian culture took such a hold on me that a significant part of my identity is now rooted in the language, history, and the cities of my ancestors. One of those cities is Florence, perhaps the best city (not named New York) on the planet.

I’m writing this from the Piazza Santo Spirito, a place I’d consider to be as close to a feeling of home as any place I’ve ever lived. Exchange students are rushing to the steps of the church to polish off their Gustapizza before it gets cold, two children are kicking a soccer ball into an imaginary net by the fountain, and I’m having a second third glass of Chianti Riserva. (So…buckle up.)

Florence is loaded with a rich history, but its history as a European power is primarily due to the monumental impact of the Medici family, who I’d argue is somehow underrated as a global influence even while commissioning some of the most priceless works of art, produced two (awful) popes responsible for the Protestant Reformation (and the sacking of Rome), and transformed trade in what’s now the Mediterranean. When you fast forward 300 years to one of its lowest points – Musselini’s fascist hold over Italy during World War II and Hitler’s purposeful destruction of centuries-old bridges so the Allies couldn’t advance on Florence – it puts into perspective the smaller problems (by comparison) the city faces today: mass tourism, rising rents, and an over-reliance on foreign money to keep the city afloat.

Unlike Venice, this hasn’t impacted the magic of Florence. The food and wine are world class, the Uffizzi gallery is still one of the Top 3 museums in the Western World, each hidden alley is an opportunity to discover an eye-watering panini or schiacciata, and the locals are fierce defenders of the culture and crown jewel of Tuscany. This is a city I’ve never wanted to leave.

Below isn’t a true list or a guide. They’re picks for my favorite spots in Florence.

• Taking a free walking tour. The La Bussola Walking Tour of Florence is pretty incredible. There are two routes you can take: one in the morning and one in the afternoon and both cover different parts. Take the tour that guides you across the Arno, follows the Vassari Corridor (this is probably the coolest part of the tour), veers by the Pitti Palace and ends in the Piazza Santo Spirito. The tour runs 3 hours and covers the less traveled part of the tourist center of Florence than the famous Santa Maria del Fiori (The Duomo).
  
  Our guide was a true local named Eleonora (named after Eleonora of Toledo, so I don’t think you can get a more authentic experience than this). She covered the history of Florence, expertly weaved the history into what you’re seeing today, gave helpful hints on which lunch places were OK in the tourist center (and which to avoid), had entertaining color commentary on Cellini, and revealed her picks for “best gelato” in the city at the end of the tour.
  
  Not all walking tours are created equal and this was solid proof. Take this tour.
  
  Important note: During this tour you’ll get 30 minute for lunch and you will be close to all’Antico Vinaio, one of the most famous panini places in Florence. Skip this entirely. Unlike five or ten years ago, it’s not even a Top 5 panini in Florence and the line for this sandwich is overly long. Walk down two more blocks and get coffee and a snack at Ditta Artiginiale. Wait until you finish the tour to eat. Trust me.

• Make advanced reservations for the Uffizi Gallery. Get there at 8:00 for an 8:15 reservation. Not a morning person? Psych yourself up. You can spend three days in the Uffizi Gallery, but 3 hours is what you need to appreciate the art and avoid a headache. I could spend hours in front of some of the most famous pieces in the entire museum: Portrait of Eleanor of Toledo, The Birth of Venus & Primavera (both Botticelli), and the Adoration of the Magi. For me, the latter is worth the price of admission on its own. Considering how rare a Leonardo painting is and the restoration just done to the room, it’s worth getting there early to have the room entirely to yourself.

• Hydrate, put on some comfortable clothes, and hike up to the sunset at the Piazza Michelangelo. Whether its peak travel time or not, the Piazza Michaelangelo draws a crowd. The views of Florence from the trek up the hill are one of the rare times I don’t mind being among a crowd. Catch the sun at the right time and the Arno transforms into a river of fire that runs between the south side of the city and the usual suspects up north: The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (“the Duomo”), the Palazzo Vecchio, and the Church of Santa Croce. Depending on how often you plan on visiting Italy, this may be a once-in-a-lifetime moment. It’s that good.
  
  If you go in the summer, it’s a hike and it’s hot. Pack some cold waters to hydrate.

• Climb the campanile. Giotto’s bell tower is one of my favorite vantage points in any city, anywhere. Directly next to the Duomo, it’s less popular (albeit more difficult) to climb all the way up. Reaching the top means climbing over 400 steps and as you ascend, the steps become more narrow the closer you get to the roof. In peak season you may need a reservation, so plan around this. The views of the Duomo, Santa Croce, Piazza della Republica, are – outside of the Piazza Michaelangelo – the best in the city.

Breakfast/Coffee

• Virginia Cafe. I have a soft spot for the Virginia Cafe. Alexa and I visited every time we could and each day was better than the last. The prices for coffee are affordable and Lorenzo’s penchant for handling a huge crowd of caffeine-addicts while mixing incredible drinks is truly impressive. I shamelessly overpaid for the touristy American espresso drinks, but the classics stand on their own. An entire display of sweet and savory breakfast foods can be taken to go or enjoyed at the bar with the locals. You can’t go wrong either way.

• La Ménagère. Directly across from Florence’s best leather shop is a restaurant that looks more at home in Paris than Florence. (or even Brooklyn). Couches, side tables, and two-tops line the second room, allowing just enough space for eggs, pancakes, and french toast to arrive at the table. This is a scene on weekends, where Instagram influencers and rosè make their way into the room. Don’t miss the florist in the 2nd room and the pastries by the register.

Snacks & Panini

• Sandwichic. Unless you’re walking toward the Accademia Gallery or take a wrong turn from the San Lorenzo Market, I’d argue that this sandwich shop isn’t on a main drag, which is how it manages to keep its charm. More than that, it’s dollar-for-dollar the best panini in Florence. Perfectly crisped bread (crispy on the outside with a satisfying crunch and some give toward the middle of the sandwich), warm prosciutto, fragrant parmigiano reggiano and truffle oils that get soaked into both sides of the sandwich? No one’s doing it better.
  
  For one or two euro, you’re treated to a small glass of house red that you pour from the small oak cask near the register. And pour. And pour…
  

• Semel Street Food. While Sandwichic may be the best overall panini in Florence, my favorite is Semel Street Food.  Located on the Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, each panini is carefully constructed, perfectly toasted, and the menu includes underrated combinations that change regularly.
  
  But the real draw? Its owner, Marco Paparozzi. Marco is quintessentially Florence and remains humble despite being recognized for the best street food in Tuscany. If you’re hungry for a prosciutto panini and one of the friendliest, most authentic Florentine experiences you can have, make your way to Semel Street Food. I’ve never seen someone so happy to refill your wine glass. This is the pinnacle of hospitality and fresh ingredients (right across from the San Ambrogio Market) in a space that might be 15 square meters.

Lunch/Dinner

• Pizza – Fuoco Matto.  Let’s start with pizza. Fuoco Matto’s famous furnace and seasoned staff consistently put out the tastiest pizza in Florence. Located a bit further off the tourist route, locals and seasoned travelers alike are treated to the perfect mix of olive oil, crushed tomatoes, and basil that smells like it was picked ten minutes before. (It might have been.)
  
  Fuoco Matto created one of the most approachable wine lists in Florence and mixes high quality with price and drinkability. The staff specializes in recommending orange wines that go so well with several items on their menu.  Try and catch seats at the bar so you get a front row seat to the pizzaiolos working real magic.  Dinner-wise, this might be the best value for your money in Florence.

• Florentine Steak – Trattoria Mario. This weekday lunch spot has so much written about it at this point that I’m legitimately surprised a full-length book dedicated to this one steak doesn’t exist. They don’t take reservations in advance and the place fits about 15 tables, so arrive 20 minutes before they open and stand in line. Order some vegetables (you’ll need them) and get your steak cooked sangue. Anything more and you’ve ruined a masterpiece. Don’t miss out on the house wines and splurge for the glass of barolo which goes so well with the steak it’s hard to imagine them being separated.

• Pasta – Osteria Santo Spirito – If you’re looking for an experience that’s quintessentially Florence, you won’t find one like Osteria Santo Spirito. Tucked in the southwest corner of Florence’s most beautiful piazza, the freshness of the ingredients and attentiveness of the waiters, and the perfectly cooked al dente pasta offer an Italian experience that you’d only get in the movies.  Save this for dinner when the locals come out to enjoy their passegiatta, sip on limoncello, and experience one of the last “old” squares in Florence that managed to keep locals living nearby.
  

Where to Shop in Florence

• Leather: Via de’Ginori, 23r. The irony of me recommending this place? I’ve visited four times and didn’t buy anything.. However, it’s widely considered one of – if not the best – artisanal leather shops in Florence. I’ll vouch for that. The leather quality is best in class and you’re not going to pay tourist prices for questionable material. They’re famous for their bags but pick up a jacket. This should be one of your first stops in Florence so they can make customizations if you’re truly interested in buying a jacket and they need time to prepare it for you.

• Souvenirs and food: Mercato di San Lorenzo. Yes, you are in the 2nd most popular tourist spot in Florence after the Duomo. Yes, you are probably going to slightly overpay. But the experience of tasting the freshest ingredients in Tuscany from regionally famous butchers and farmers while bringing home a souvenir of olive oil? Entirely worth the trip. Once you’re done shopping, head upstairs to the Mercato Centrale  and experience over 40+ vendors to taste authentic Italian food. (This is a better version of Eataly with locals making and serving the food.). The truffle vendor is legit and so are the green juices.

• Clothing: For men, several European chains exist here and always seem to have deals. Gutteridge, Massimo Dutti (fun fact: This is actually a Spanish company), and Liu Jo. I’m not much of a boutique shopper and I’m a shark for a good deal, so these were my go-to’s. But since my clothing taste is predominantly navy blue shirts, all of this was exotic.

Where to Drink in Florence

• Le Volpe e L’uva. Cross the Ponte Vecchio, make your 2nd left onto the Piazza Santa Felicita, and pray that there’s an open table. If there isn’t, you can’t go wrong at the bar, where Siennese and Tuscan charcuterie plates are taking form, and one of the strongest wine menus in the city is up on the wall. The place is charming and good for both friends or a good lunch date.  Order the Siennese charcuterie board and a Chianti Riserva.

• Il Santino Wine Bar. Also below the Arno, this wine spot in San Frediano is great people-watching for local Florentines. Order a glass of wine, watch them gently carve some prosciutto in front of you, and relax in the street with young 20-somethings who dress better than anyone you’ve ever seen.

• Oibo Restaurant. Florence isn’t as known for its aperitivo as Milan, but if you do go for aperitivo, check out Oibo. The outdoor seats will give you a solid view of the Piazza Santa Croce, which is half the draw of eating here. Wash down the pasta, pane, and tomato appetizers with a negroni. Go for the cocktails or beers here.